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As some Army regulations on beard styles atom beef from African American women, David Greene talks to assistant Lori Tharps, co-author of Beard Story: Untangling the Roots of Atramentous Beard in America.

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RENEE MONTAGNE, HOST:

And the Army has new rules on the dress and actualization of soldiers. The rules catch bottomward on tattoos, mohawks, continued fingernails, dental ornamentation. So, diamond-studded teeth not allowed.

STEVE INSKEEP, HOST:

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The Army is additionally banning some hairstyles accepted amid African-American women. The declared ambition actuality is professionalism, but some soldiers and alike associates of the Congressional Atramentous Caucus are upset, and they are advancement the Obama administering to booty a additional attending at the rules.

MONTAGNE: To accept what’s abaft this stir, our aide David Greene batten to Lori Tharps. She teaches journalism at Temple University and co-wrote the book, “Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Atramentous Beard in America.”

DAVID GREENE, HOST:

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Professor Tharps, acknowledgment for abutting us on the program. We acknowledge you demography the time.

LORI THARPS: Acknowledge you for accepting me.

GREENE: So let me ask you, the armed armament about everywhere crave some array of accord in dress and appearance. But some of the new rules accept absolutely addled a assumption with African-American women and I’m apprehensive if you can aloof explain to me why that is.

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THARPS: It’s absolutely actual simple in that the action itself does not booty into application the history and culture, as able-bodied as the simple, you know, biological architecture of atramentous beard and what it requires. They accept finer accounted inappropriate some of the best able and accepted hairstyles that abounding of these women wear.

GREENE: Well, let me ask you about some of the styles because the Army has banned dreadlocks absolutely aback 2005, which some bodies accept been pointing out and the Army says that it’s now allegorical what sorts of braids, blah rows and twists are accustomed aback it comes to hairstyles. And I capital to apprehend anon from one of the adapted rules and see if you could allocution to me about it.

It’s a aphorism on blah rows and it says, quote, “Corn rows charge be of compatible dimension, baby in diameter, about division of an inch, actualization no added than one-eighth inch of attic amid the blah rows and charge be deeply formed or braided to present a accurate able clean-cut appearance.” That is a lot of specific language. Allocution to me about the botheration actuality and why some African-American women feel that’s aloof and conceivably alike racist.

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THARPS: I don’t anticipate there’s too abundant to be affronted by in agreement of, you know, there’s article amiss with how they’re

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